By Brad Burton, Founder & Editor ·Updated June 2026 ·How we research this

The Stakes Are Higher Than Most Projects

A roofing contractor's mistakes don't reveal themselves immediately. A poor install can look fine on day one and cause structural damage within two years. Worse, if a contractor pulls no permit, installs the wrong underlayment, or uses non-compliant materials, your homeowner's insurance may deny a future claim — and you may have to disclose (or correct) the work before you can sell the house.

The nine checks below take roughly two hours total. That time protects a project that typically costs $8,000–$20,000.

The 9-Point Contractor Verification Checklist

1. State License Verification

Most states require a roofing contractor license, and those that do maintain a public lookup tool on their contractor licensing board website. Search "[your state] roofing contractor license lookup" and enter the name or license number the contractor gives you. Confirm the license type covers roofing specifically (not just general contracting), that it's currently active, and check for any disciplinary history on the record.

States without a statewide roofing license requirement (like Texas) often have county- or city-level registration requirements. Ask what local registration applies in your area.

2. Liability Insurance + Workers' Compensation

Ask for the certificate of insurance before any work begins. The certificate must show both general liability insurance (minimum $1 million per occurrence) and workers' compensation coverage. Then call the insurance company listed on the certificate to confirm the policy is currently active — certificates can be outdated or forged.

If a worker is injured on your property and the contractor lacks workers' comp, your homeowner's insurance may be on the hook. This is non-negotiable.

3. A Verifiable Local Address

After major hail or wind events, storm-chasing contractors from out of state flood affected markets. They take deposits, do shoddy work, and disappear — leaving you with no recourse. A legitimate local contractor has a physical business address you can visit, a local phone number, and branded vehicles. Search the address on Google Maps. If it's a UPS Store box or a residential home with no business presence, walk away.

4. Years in Business and Recent Local References

Ask for three references from jobs completed in your area within the past 12 months. Call them. Ask how long the job took, whether the final invoice matched the estimate, whether the crew cleaned up properly, and whether they'd hire the contractor again. A company unwilling to provide recent local references should raise concern.

General rule: five or more years of continuous operation in your market is a reasonable baseline. New companies aren't automatically bad, but they carry more uncertainty.

5. Manufacturer Certification

The major shingle manufacturers — GAF, CertainTeed, and Owens Corning — each run contractor certification programs. GAF calls theirs Master Elite; CertainTeed uses SELECT ShingleMaster; Owens Corning labels their network Preferred Contractors. These certifications aren't handed out freely: contractors must meet training, licensing, insurance, and installation standards.

The practical benefit to you: only certified contractors can offer extended manufacturer warranties — 50-year warranties in some cases — that cover both materials and labor. An uncertified contractor cannot offer these warranties, no matter what they tell you. Verify certification directly on the manufacturer's website, not on the contractor's own materials.

6. A Written, Itemized Estimate

A proper estimate shows line items for: materials (brand name, product line, color), tear-off of the existing roof, decking repair rate (per sheet), underlayment, ice and water shield, drip edge, ridge cap, flashing, permit, and cleanup/disposal. An "all-inclusive" lump sum with no breakdown is a red flag — you have no way to verify what materials are being used or to compare bids accurately.

If a contractor won't break out the estimate, ask them to. If they refuse, that tells you something.

7. Permit Pulling

Full roof replacements require a permit in most jurisdictions. The contractor should pull the permit — not you. If a contractor asks you to pull the permit yourself, that's a liability transfer tactic. A homeowner pulling their own permit for contractor work can mean you're legally responsible for ensuring the work meets code. The permit also triggers the inspection that confirms deck condition and code compliance — skipping it can affect your insurance and your ability to sell the home.

8. Dumpster and Cleanup Plan

Tear-off generates significant debris — old shingles, underlayment, nails, and decking scraps. Before signing, confirm who provides the dumpster, where it will be placed, and who is responsible for cleanup. The contractor should handle all of this. Ask specifically about nail cleanup — a magnetic sweep of the driveway, yard, and surrounding areas is standard practice and should be written into the scope.

9. Payment Terms

Never pay more than 10–20% upfront as a deposit. The remaining balance should be paid upon satisfactory completion — after you've walked the roof (or had the contractor walk it with you), confirmed all debris is removed, and inspected the gutters and surrounding areas. Paying in full before the job starts removes all leverage you have if problems arise.

Pay by check or credit card. Paying cash makes disputes nearly impossible to resolve. Credit cards offer chargeback rights if the work isn't completed as agreed.

Comparing bids correctly: Make sure every bid specifies the same material — same manufacturer, same product line, same shingle class. A bid that looks 20% cheaper may be using 3-tab shingles when the others priced architectural. You're comparing apples to apples only when the scope is identical.

Get at Least Three Bids

Three bids is the standard. The lowest bid isn't automatically the best value — if one estimate is significantly below the others, the materials or crew quality is likely the variable. The middle bid from a well-credentialed contractor typically represents the strongest combination of value and reliability.

Book bids in July or August if you want September or October installation — the best contractors fill their fall schedule early, and fall is the optimal season for both pricing and installation conditions.

Know Your Budget Before You Call Anyone

Use our free calculator to get a ballpark roof replacement cost by size and material — so you can evaluate bids from a position of knowledge.

Run the Free Calculator →

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I hire a local or national roofing company?
Local contractors are almost always the better choice. They carry a local reputation, know your area's building codes and permit requirements, and are accountable after the job is done. National chains often subcontract the work to local crews anyway — but add a markup. The exception is if a national company has a substantial local office with verifiable history in your market.
How do I verify a contractor's license?
Every state that requires roofing licenses maintains a public lookup tool on its contractor licensing board website. Search "[your state] contractor license lookup" and enter the contractor's name or license number. Verify the license type covers roofing, that it's active, and check for any disciplinary actions on record.
Can I negotiate a roofing estimate?
Yes, especially if you have competing bids. Ask the contractor to match a lower bid from a comparable company, or request discounts for off-peak scheduling (late fall, early spring), referrals, or paying by check instead of card. Never negotiate by asking a contractor to cut quality — negotiate on margin, not materials.
What payment method is safest for roof replacement?
Paying by check or credit card is safest. Credit cards give you chargeback rights if work is not completed or is defective. Never pay cash in full upfront. A standard deposit of 10–20% is reasonable; the remainder should be paid upon satisfactory job completion, not before.